What’s Up With These 6 Controversial Dog Food Ingredients?

The first way to raise a healthy dog is by feeding them a healthy diet. As dog owners, we should always be taking the time to check out what ingredients are in our dog’s food to make sure that our dogs are only eating healthy, nutritious food.

Sometimes, however, the answer isn’t as simple as “good” or “bad” when it comes to an ingredient. From beet juice to pea protein, these 6 controversial ingredients might be in your dog’s food.

1: Garlicis garlic toxic in dogs?
Why It’s Controversial:
Some dog owners give their dogs garlic supplements to help them repel fleas and ticks, but others believe this is too dangerous.

The Real Facts:
Garlic can be toxic to dogs and has even been linked to the development of more serious disorders such as Heinz body anemia.

Since it is still unclear about what kind of damage garlic may cause to red blood cells, it is best to avoid this ingredient in any dosages.

2: Pea Protein
Why It’s Controversial:
Some owners avoid pea protein because they believe it contains lectin, which can be dangerous for dogs.

The Real Facts:
While there is lectin in raw peas, the cooking process used to prepare dog food deactivates the lectin, so there is no danger.

Pea protein is a great, concentrated source of protein that will boost your dog’s diet with many essential amino acids. The best way to make sure your dog gets all the amino acids they need is to feed them a combination of both animal and plant protein sources.
3: Beet Pulp
Why It’s Controversial:
There are a number of claims about what beet pulp can cause:
Red tear stains on light-colored dogs
Ear infections
Digestion problems

The Real Facts:
In all my time researching dog food, I’ve never found any studies that accurately link beet pulp to any of these issues.

Beet pulp is an incredible source of fiber that is digestible by your dog, so there is no reason to avoid dog foods which include this ingredient.
4: Yeast
Why It’s Controversial:
Some critics believe yeast causes allergic reactions. Others are certain that yeast increases the chances of bloat in some dogs.

The Real Facts:
High-quality yeast is good for dogs unless they have an allergy to yeast.

Brewer’s yeast has been shown to help aid digestion as well as promote healthy skin, hair, eyes, and activity levels in dogs. Nutritional yeast adds many beneficial nutrients including B12 to a dog’s diet.

5: Rosemary
Why It’s Controversial:
There are rumors in the dog food world that rosemary can cause your dog to have seizures, making many people avoid foods with rosemary in them.

The Real Facts:
There have been no studies linking rosemary to any type of seizures in dogs, nor could I find any record of this happening.

Rosemary is a great, natural preservative that is often used in dog food to keep it fresh. It is also considered to be a great anti-cancer additive.
6: Corn
Why It’s Controversial:
Corn is a common ingredient in many great dog foods, but some owners believe it is just a cheap filler with no real nutritional value. Some believe that corn has lower sugar levels and higher protein levels than other cereal grains, making it a good source of energy.

The Real Facts:
According to Labrador Training HQ’s best dog food guide, corn does not have a lower glycemic value, and it is not a great source of any vitamins or minerals. It is a cheap carbohydrate source used in inexpensive dog foods.

While this cereal grain is digestible as long as it is finely ground before it is cooked into kibble, there are better carbohydrate sources that you could choose for your dog such as sweet potatoes.

Grain-free is becoming the norm in the dog food industry, but foods containing corn as one of the ingredients is not necessarily bad for your dog. I would not recommend any foods that have corn or corn meal as the first or second ingredient, but there is currently no scientific evidence that confirms that a grain-free diet is a must for dogs.
Feed Your Dog The Right Food For Them
When it comes to these controversial ingredients, there are pros and cons no matter how you look at them. If you’re still not sold about any of the ingredients, simply choose a dog food that does not include them.

The only one of these controversial ingredients that I would recommend always avoiding is garlic – the risks of using this potentially toxic ingredient are simply too high for dogs.

What matters is that you pay attention to what you’re comfortable with feeding your dog and to what they are comfortable eating.

12 Amazing Reasons Why Dogs Are Good to Help Raise Children

12 Amazing Reasons Why Dogs Are Good to Help Raise Children

Having pets is an integral part of our lives for they provide unconditional love, immeasurable joy, and enrichment. In fact, a great number of families in the country own pet dogs. And most of these families have a child or two. This shows that families enjoy having pets at home and they want to share it to their offspring as well.

Children at some point have nagged parents on and on about having pet dogs. This is because they tend to think all the fun benefits of owning a pet. However, not all parents are open to the idea of allowing their kids to have pet dogs. Little do they know that dogs provide many benefits for children. These benefits range from health to physical to social developments of the child.

One such good example of an advantage to having a pet dog is lowered stress levels. Cuddling with our four-legged companions could help lower loneliness, stress, and anxiety. In fact, the benefit of lowering stress level is the biggest advantage there is to having pet dogs with children at home.

Thus, the relaxation and relief provided by pet dogs to children, and parents, yield great health benefits. This translates to fewer visits to the doctor, decreased number of illnesses and health problems in a year, and decreased risks for various diseases.

Below, you will find a well-thought of and organized colorful infographic. It has more tips and details of the many advantages to letting children grow up with dogs. We want to highlight that owning a dog could be a delightful experience for the children and the family.

This is a Guest post from Jenny from herepup.com. Thank you Jenny.

12 Amazing Reasons Why Dogs Are Good to Help Raise Children

Breeding Precautions

Breeding Precautions

No bitch should be bred from before she has finished growing, never before her second heat, and better at her third. Very few breeders will agree with the last statement, mainly because it does not fit in with the general economics of kennel management.
A good many bitches are kept intact until after this age so that they may be shown, and they are often bred from quite successfully, later even than the third season.
Prior to the time when she is expected to come into season the bitch needs regular exercise and suitable nourishment. She should remain lean and active rather than become fat and lethargic.
A bitch should be wormed a few weeks before she is due in season, and following this she should be isolated as far as possible to avoid reinfestation from worm eggs passed out in the droppings of other dogs or puppies. The dosing should be repeated between the 5th and 6th weeks following the mating. The choice of the anthelmintic is important. Your veterinary surgeon will supply a safe and effective vermicide that will not cause purging or bowel irritation. A few of the worming medicines in common use may be too drastic for use during pregnancy.
Vaccination is a matter that needs consideration in the bitch of, let us say, two or three years of age, from whom it is intended to breed, because a bitch that has been immunised as a puppy will, in two or three years, have lost her immunity unless she has been the round of shows or mixed freely with other dogs outside the kennels. But it is not worth the risk just keep the annual vaccines up to date. For the bitch and the potential puppies.
A booster dose should be given ideally at least a month before the expected time of mating.
Vaccination should not be carried out after mating, or certainly not before the 40th day of pregnancy. If for any reason it becomes absolutely necessary to vaccinate the bitch after the 40th day or at any time after this, and before the birth of her puppies, it is essential the puppies should be vaccinated with a modified live virus at the 8th week, and again at their 10th week, with an annual booster after that. The reason is that when the bitch is vaccinated during pregnancy her milk will contain antibodies that may nullify any living vaccine that can safely be injected into them. The result may then well be that the puppies will be entirely dependent upon the original antibodies in the milk, and when these diminish and disappear from the puppies’ systems they will be wide open to infection. This is why the second injection at ten weeks and the booster annually become so imperative.
If leptospiral or virus hepatitis should appear in the kennel during the period of pregnancy, the bitch should be injected against these two diseases with a killed vaccine, not with a living one. The veterinary surgeon will, of course, be quite aware of this.
Radiography, in an attempt to determine the existence or otherwise of pregnancy, may be helpful to prepare you for the amount of puppies expected and the size of the puppy might help you decide it a caesarean. Earlier diagnoses can be done with ultrasound but please be aware that it is not always possible to give you the amount of puppies.
One of the tools that is getting used more often is progesterone levels.
1. To narrow down your best mating date.
2. To get your puppy number up to as high as possible
3. To know if your bitches due day is true ( if you are planning a C section)
4. To make sure abortion is not due to low progesterone.
For more information http://familypetvet.com.au/progesterone-test/

Puppy CPR

puppy CPRThe cubic capacity of a puppy’s chest is quite small, and too heroic efforts to fill it may cause serious trouble. The lungs of the average human being are too strong to permit safe `mouth-to-mouth’ inflation of the lungs of a puppy. It is safer to employ a small-bore tube provided with a small hole in the lumen which may be covered and uncovered by the finger, with a close watch upon the amount of expansion induced. One must blow gently and at intervals of 2 to 3 seconds, allowing the puppy’s chest.

A simple blow tube may be devised by removing the ink tube, the plastic cap, and the metal tip, from an ordinary ball-point pen. The tapered end of the tube is inserted into the puppy’s mouth, and respiration is started by blowing gently through the other end. If a small hole has been made half-way down the tube into the lumen of the air passage, this may be covered and uncovered at 2 second intervals with the tip of the finger. When the ribs rise as the lungs fill, stop blowing, and wait for the chest to empty by its own elasticity.

The hole bored into the lumen of the tube acts as a safety valve against the application of too much air pressure, and it can be closed with the tip of the finger if the pressure needs increasing. The inflation is continued until respiration is completely established. When the puppy of its own volition has taken one or more gulps of air artificial respiration may be carried on by the method shown in Fig. 6.

Whenever the puppy makes an effort to breathe but needs help, this is usually the better course to adopt and, in most instances, it is successful.

To carry out the operation, the puppy is held with the thumbs and fingers of both hands, its belly facing the operator and its back turned away.

First, the head turns backwards and downwards, the hind feet simultaneously rising upwards.

After this, the hind feet turn the circle and the head comes up again.

Each full turn of the puppy should take about 3 seconds, then after a second’s rest the turning is repeated until normal breathing is restored.

It is good practice to draw the outline of a puppy on a piece of cardboard, cut it out with scissors, and transfix it on a skewer through the spot marked X. Revolve the puppy head down, tail up and so on, and become accustomed to the positions. Then try to imitate these without the skewer. This procedure is well worth learning as it saves more puppies than any other method when there is difficulty in getting them to start breathing.

Other instruments useful for inflating the lungs include a rubber car syringe, which may be bought from a chemist; a small round plastic funnel which will fit snugly over the puppy’s head. This has the advantage that when air is blown into the funnel, it travels down the puppy’s nostrils rather than directly down the trachea. In the larger breeds the cardboard central tube of a toilet roll may be placed over the head or muzzle and blown through.

The ear syringe may also be used as a feeding bottle. The puppy is forced to suck against a vacuum within the bulb of the syringe and there is no fear of choking (provided an impatient attendant does not squeeze

 

Dog Stealing Food

Dog stealing a cakeDogs are one of the most adaptable and evolutionarily successful creatures on earth. One of the reasons for this is that they are expert scavengers. Any food, unless it is actually in the mouth of another pack member, is up for grabs— if it’s available, it’s worth having!

On the whole, domestic dogs have not lost this drive to scavenge. If they find food or something that they regard as edible, and they get the chance, they are likely to eat it. This is not naughty behavior or stealing from the dog’s point of view—but a sensible use of resources. Unfortunately, humans have different values and we are not sympathetic if we discover that the dog has jumped up on the kitchen counter and eaten the Sunday roast, or put its head in the garbage can and licked it clean.

The desire to scavenge is usually governed to some extent by breed characteristics. Gundogs are notorious “stomachs-on-legs” and will usually eat anything and everything if given the chance. Scavenging also depends on the diet that the dog is currently eating, and the allure of the food it finds. Nearly all dogs find the dung of other animals almost impossible to resist.

Cat feces, horse manure, cattle dung, rabbit and fox droppings are all considered to be doggie delicacies, even if we don’t agree! Although repulsive to us, such morsels are unlikely to do your any harm as long as you regularly have your dog wormed.

By ignoring “begging” an owner can easily teach their dog that human food is not for sharing dog.

Prevention is always better than cure if you have a dog that would like to spend ten hours a day eating. Keeping the dog out of the kitchen while cooking, teaching it to lie in a bed or basket with a chew or toy during family mealtimes, and putting food out of reach are all sensible strategies. If the dog manages to obtain food only occasionally, the lure of trying to get it is even stronger.This makes a “no feeding from the table” rule even more important.

In most domestic households, dogs have access to many different kinds of objects, some of which they are allowed to touch and others they are forbidden to pick up. Childrens’ toys, remote control units, eyeglasses, hair bands, socks, even Christmas decorations are all removed from dogs’ stomachs by veterinarians every year, and many dogs are killed after ingesting poisons, such as human medication and household chemicals.

It is perfectly normal for a puppy to want to pick up objects and put them in its mouth. Much like human toddlers, puppies explore the world around them through taste and smell, as well as testing to see what the reaction from those around them will be. This is usually the prime reason dogs “steal” items from around the house.

Imagine the scenario: your dog is lying quietly on the floor, chewing on a dog toy that you have given it. What do you do or say? Very little! Now imagine the same dog lying on the floor quietly chewing your wallet. The reaction would be somewhat different. Dogs, like children, will work hard to get attention, even negative attention, such as being scolded. Most young or adolescent dogs love nothing better than watching their owners getting hot under the collar, and if they can turn possession of a forbidden item into a chase game around the house and into the yard—even better! In this way, dogs soon learn that chewing their own toy gets no rewards, attention, or excitement at all, while picking up and chewing a valuable object results in the equivalent of winning the lottery.

The best solution for this kind of behavior is to reverse the reaction you give to the dog. If it picks up one of its own toys, show excitement, play, and praise. On the other hand, if it picks up an object you don’t want it to have, but can sacrifice, such as a tissue or a newspaper, walk straight out of the room without a word. If the object is one that you really can’t ignore, creating a distraction, such as ringing the front doorbell, gives you a window of opportunity to retrieve it, without inadvertently giving the dog attention for unwanted behavior. Any aggression over possession of stolen articles should be dealt with in conjunction with a behavior specialist.



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How to pick a new Terrier, cocker or Pekinese pups.

Neck

Pekinese dog with puppyThe length of a dog’s neck may decide whether it jogs along on the road to fame or stays in its kennel. But what would be ideal in one breed might be quite wrong in another. Our Fox Terrier and our Cocker choice will need to have long necks. In their future life they will both have to exercise a great deal of head movement which would be impossible if the necks were short and their lower ends squeezed in between the two scapulae.

In nine cases out of ten the short, cramped neck goes in company with upright scapulae (shoulder blades). So, when looking over your Terrier and Cocker puppies pick those with long necks and sloping scapulae, that is, with shoulders which at their upper extremities lie well back upon the dorsal bones.

The degree of inclination of the scapula will be just as positive or negative at the third day of life as at the third month. It is a fixed characteristic and inborn. A bad, upright shoulder never corrects itself, but it may become worse, especially when exercise is limited and the puppy too well fed.

We may now take another look at our litter of Pekingese. The standard says nothing about the length of neck desirable in the breed but one may presume that it would not be noticeably long in a variety furnished with a thick-set body. A particularly lengthy neck in a Pekingese owning a large round head, might produce a rather grotesque result if the head could be protruded, and cocked at a variety of angles. Nor does the Pekingese standard say anything about the layback of shoulder but it does insist upon absolute soundness and forelegs firm at the shoulder, so it may be presumed that in this breed we may expect to see a moderately inclined shoulder accompanied by a rather sturdy, compact neck. These characteristics may be recognised, or markedly absent, in the Pekingese puppy as early as the third week and it is rather unlikely that as regards the relative proportion between neck and shoulders the puppy will undergo any marked change as it grows.

Chest

All three of the breeds under consideration require depth of chest but the actual shape of the chest is a little different in each of the three breeds (Terriers, Cockers, and Pekingese). In a Fox Terrier the chest will require depth and width without being in any way barrel-shaped. In the young puppy, while apparent depth is good, it may be as well to plump for the well-filled chest of good capacity rather than for one that is too flat-sided, and may stay that way. The ribs take weeks or months to lengthen, and the sternum (breast bone) seldom reaches down to the level of the elbows before the puppy is at least six months old. In the Cockers, the ribs arc stouter than in the Terriers and develop more rapidly, and the sternum reaches its low level somewhat earlier. In spite of this, up to six or eight weeks of age it is safer to give marks for chest capacity rather than for chest shape. The tendency is always for the final shape to be that common in the breed.

How much fat do I feed my dog?

dogs on scales
Animal obesity – bulldog dressed up as doctor standing beside pug laying down on weigh scale

Normal dogs require not less than 5 per cent of fat in their diet if they are to remain comfortably plump, and carry good coats. As much as 10 per cent can be fed, temporarily, to a dog that has lived on a fat-deficient diet, or half-starved, without causing digestive upsets, except perhaps in a few individual cases in which there is fat-sensitivity so- called chronic gastritis case, to use a common expression.

Every dog, however, appears to have its own special fat requirement; while some appear to be unable to digest fairly high proportion of beef fat added to their regular diet. In the absence of a fat ration, the dog uses up fat already stored in its body, until the fat content of the whole body falls to 6 per cent, after which emaciation becomes observable.

It is being able to maintain the balance between the laying down of fat and its regular rate of absorption that spells success not a particularly easy thing to do in these days of building congestion and motor traffic, which limit the possibility of either man or dog taking sufficient exercise.

The type of fat within the body depends in large measure upon the diet. If it comes from the food in the form of butter, beef fat, cream or lard, the dog’s fat remains soft and the dog appears unduly obese.

If, however, the source of the fat is digested carbohydrate, the fat in the body is much harder, and it is possible for the dog to carry a considerable quantity of such fat, firmly moulded into or around the body, with the clog looking fairly normal, certainly not obese.

Although both fat and carbohydrate foods provide energy, they play quite different parts in the metabolism of the body, and the one cannot be substituted for the other, both fat and carbohydrate being necessarily present in the same diet.

The inclusion of sufficient fat in the diet appears to have a definite value in maintaining bitch fertility but at no time should the proportion of fat fed to brood bitches exceed 5 per cent of the total ration. This applies also to lactating bitches during the summer, though rather more can be fed to them when the weather and the accommodation are cold.

Fat is very necessary in connection with the nourishment and well-being of the skin, and in this connection one must include the ears, which are lined with skin even down the ear canal. It has been proved that a number of skin diseases, including a fair proportion of cases of so-called chronic tear-canker’,’ respond to treatment consisting of feeding fat, or unsalted bacon in the feed daily, while the benefit derived from quite small amounts of pure, fresh linseed oil (not boiled oil) is well known to many breeders.

A shortage of fat in the diet may give rise in some dogs, principally the long-eared varieties, to a purulent form of ear canker.

Excess of fat fed to dogs lessens the appetite for other necessary foods and, even if it fails to excite biliousness and vomiting, it may retard growth in young animals.

Young dogs and recently weaned puppies are far less able than older animals to digest either meat proteins or fats. Rancid fats such as stale lard and rancid cod-liver oil, are capable of destroying vitamins A and E in the body. One useful effect of a store of fat within the body is that it may help to combat certain types of infection, especially those attacking the skin.

Dog Food Requirement

dog food requirementThese days most commercial food take all this in consideration. Just make sure you choose the right type of food for the right type and age of the dog. But if you would like more information these are the theories it is based on.

Although, in theory, the needs of any individual dog can be estimated by the use of charts and tables, it is equally easy to weigh a dog at intervals. Having ascertained the optimum weight of every dog in the kennel when in fit condition and in perfect health it is as well to record this, and then one may decide whether excess weight demands less food, more exercise, or both, loss of weight indicating a need for extra nourishment. It is soon possible to get to know the sort of food each dog requires and thrives best on.

Increased weight may be due to growth, excessive fatness, muscular development, or even to the over-retention of fluid in the tissues. It may also be associated with pregnancy or with pyometra in the bitch, or in either sex with any dropsical condition. In the two latter, the distension is purely abdominal with increased girth and there may even be loss of flesh in other parts of the body.

It is easier to put on weight than to reduce it. A tendency to obesity appears to be hereditary in some lines, especially among bitches. Excessive fat can be gradually reduced in a healthy subject by increasing the amount of exercise and cutting down on carbohydrates and fats. Lack of body fat may sometimes require a veterinary examination to determine the cause.

In a healthy, worm-free dog, the weight may be increased by extra food containing the essential proteins and carbohydrates and fat, plus the necessary minerals, vitamins, and trace elements in the right proportions.

Exercise needs to be moderated though it must be sufficient to keep the muscles in good trim. Care should be taken to distinguish the abnormally lean dog from one in a state of hard muscular fitness. The lean dog may be very fit and healthy but the over-fat one may be a sick clog in spite of its prosperous appearance.

The energy value of a food is usually expressed in calories; another way of showing how much body heat a particular food is capable of producing. A calorie is the unit of heat that will raise the temperature of one cubic centimetre of water one degree Centigrade.

The heat output of the animal at rest, expressed in calories, is known as the basic metabolic rate. As a result of numerous experiments carried out by many investigators it is now accepted that the requirement of a dog weighing 13.5 kilograms (about 26 lb) is 24 calories for each pound body weight per day. A clog of Cocker size, say 25 lb, would therefore (in theory) require 600 calories daily in terms of food.

This figure, however, was worked out using experimental dogs at rest, and allowance must therefore be made in every case with due regard to the amount of exercise or work, and an appropriate number of calories added to the amount. This is where theory and practice are apt to get a little tangled. A sheepdog on the hills may easily travel 20 to 25 miles in a day, but a Pekingese or a Chihuahua might not do a great deal more than that in yards.

Extensive experiments have shown that the requirements of the normal housedog may average 4.0 calories for every pound of body weight. On 50 calories per lb (100 calories per kg) most of the experimental dogs put on overweight.

What applies to pets and housedogs in general, does not apply to hounds and working dogs, which could consume more than 5o calories per lb bodyweight and still remain lean and fit (provided they were working).

The number of calories considered requisite to retain condition in the housedog needs to be increased in growing dogs, also during cold weather, and in pregnancy, and in lactating bitches.

In estimating the number of calories required, body surface is actually more important than weight.

In a small breed, such as a Chihuahua or Yorkshire Terrier, the basic metabolic rate is inversely proportional to that of a large dog such as a Great Dane or Pyrenean, since in dogs with a large body surface there is far greater loss of body heat.

Growing puppies require twice as many calories for each pound of their weight as adult clogs would need. Arnold and Elvelyem determined that a puppy weighing 21 oz required 282 calories, but as soon as it attained the weight of 10 lb it would require only 900 calories through an entire day.

Allowing 40 calories for each pound body weight, this would feed a 30 lb house- dog for a day and permit it to take normal exercise.

Alternatively, a diet containing an almost equal number of calories could be provided by 4 oz of tinned dog food (200 calories), 4 oz biscuit (400 calories), and to oz of milk (zoo calories) with 4. oz wholemeal bread (28o calories.)

The above examples show how, with a knowledge of food values, the changes may be rung to provide a varied diet and, on occasion, practice economy. Due account will have to be paid to (a) palatability, (b) digestibility and (c) bulk.

 

 

 

Getting Your Puppy Show Ready

From the time your puppy is six weeks old get them used to standing on a table whilst you groom them and stand them as if at a show to get your puppy show ready for when you need it . Your puppy will soon learn to he handled and by doing this almost daily they will stand quite still and you will get a perfect picture of your future show prospect.

dog show ready AiredaleWhen your puppy is about three months old they will be too big to lift on to a table so you must continue to practise on the ground. As they gets a little older buy a light weight cord lead and, after grooming, put it on him and encourage him to run up and down. Treat it as a game and he will soon get the idea of following you. In the same way as one teaches a child good deportment, so a dog can be taught to stand and move correctly.

By the time he is old enough to go to a show you will probably be able to hold his interest with a discreet titbit now and again or the promise of something exciting in your pocket. Each dog has to be treated differently as some are over-awed by the occasion and will take no interest at all in food at a show. Others react very well and really look their best when looking keen and interested in what you have concealed in your hand or pocket.

When your doggy friends call to see you, take the opportunity of asking them to go over the puppy as if judging them to get your puppy show ready for when you need it . This is excellent practice for you both and by the time he is old enough to go to a show you will enter the ring full of confidence in the knowledge that your puppy knows what is required of him.

So often one sees good puppies unplaced at shows because the handler has not done any previous training and makes no effort himself to show the dog off to best advantage. A good and experienced handler will often be successful with a mediocre dog because he has been standing the dog well just at the right time and showing off his best qualities. It is impossible for a judge to place a dog no matter how good he is, if every time he goes near the animal it sits down or lunges all over the place when asked to move. This is why it is so important to start training now to get your puppy show ready.

Quite apart from showing your puppy you must make sure your puppy is obedient and domesticated, so that whether at home or outdoors you can rely on him behaving himself. The most useful of all commands are `sit’, ‘heel’, and ‘bed’, as the case may be.

Dog show readyGenerally speaking, a Golden in the house takes up less room than a small breed such as a terrier, spaniel or poodle who are constantly dashing about getting under your feet and jumping on all the furniture. A well behaved Golden, on the other hand, will go to its bed or lie down under a table or wherever it is told to go. Nothing is worse than to visit a house where one is immediately molested by dogs with large muddy paws, or those who dribble all over your lap whenever there is food about. A dog should know where his bed is so that he can be sent there, not only when he has done wrong but, for instance, when he has come in from a walk and has wet feet, or when he has a bone to chew. Never allow this on the carpet! Such habits can be taught from an early age. It is not wise to leave a young puppy on his own for too long as he will get bored and start chewing up the carpets, shoes, hooks and papers, or the leads and flexes of electrical equipment which should always be switched off when he is left to himself, even briefly. On the other hand he should not expect to go everywhere his owners go and must be left at home sometimes. I know of some people who make themselves slaves to their dog so that they cannot go anywhere without him, or even go on holiday because they cannot leave their dog. A spoilt dog is like a spoilt child. A puppy will cry if he cannot go with his master but if he has learnt from an early age to be left alone for a short period, and that you will come back, he will settle down quietly in his bed and sleep.

A well behaved dog will serve you and your family better in and outside the rign

Air Travel with Your Dog from the UK

 dog airtravelSo many people seem to think that it is complicated to travel with your dog on an airplane. In fact, it is quite simple when you know how.

For the UK if you are going abroad.The first thing to do is to apply to the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food, Government Buildings, Block B, Hook Rise South, Tolworth, Surbiton, Surrey, or telephone Derwent 6611 for the regulations applying to the country to which the puppy is to be sent.

Each country has different restrictions but it is a simple matter to enquire and find out what they are. The Ministry will be able to give you all the up-to-date information and if a licence is found to be necessary they will send you the appropriate form to fill in

You will then know at once whether the puppy has to be vaccinated with Rabies vaccine before export, or if he requires a blood test or anv other stipulated requirement. An early enquiry can save delays later. Some countries offer more complications than others. Finland, for instance, requires a faeces test. Dogs sent to Denmark have to be accompanied by a statement sworn before a Commissioner of Oaths that they have not left the breeder’s premises; and when I sent the first two Golden Retrievers ever to go to the Argentine, they had to be accompanied by passport photographs.

Apart from any necessary injections a Health Certificate must be obtained from a veterinary surgeon approved by the Ministry of Agriculture. This must he signed a stipulated number of days before the dog is exported, but to qualify for it the puppy may need some preliminary immunisation or treatment so it is as well to enquire some time in advance. A form on which to apply for an export pedigree must he obtained from the Kennel Club and returned with a fee. In the case of a male dog, the form must be signed by a veterinary surgeon as having examined the dog and found both testicles descended into the scrotum. If possible the export pedigree should he sent with the puppy but this is not absolutely necessary.

Book the puppy on a direct flight if possible wherever it is going. If you are not going to use an agent to send the puppy then a travelling box (crate) must either be obtained beforehand or arrangements made for it to he delivered to the cargo department of the airline being used. Travelling boxes(crates) are made in various sizes of light weight material to a specification laid down by the authorities and the box should be of a size which will allow the dog sufficient freedom and room to stand up and turn around.

Although I have done much of my own exporting in the past I think that nowadays it is better to use a good export agent of repute who will take care of all the details and provide the travelling box. They are experts at the job and will deliver the puppy to the airport and notify the purchaser in advance of the time of arrival. Sometimes a puppy or grown dog may be going on a long distance flight such as to Australia or New Zealand. This must be done through an agent as quarantine kennels have to be booked in the country to which the dog is going and a special kennel is required which is sealed before take-off and must not be opened until the animal is examined by the veterinary authorities on arrival. If the plane is delayed in any country during the journey and the kennel is opened, then the dog will have to be flown back to this country and put into quarantine kennels for six months. –

If an agent is handling your puppy it can be delivered the day before the flight to his kennels. If he is a bad car traveller this will give him time to get over this part of the journey and allow him to have a good meal and sleep before taking off the next day, especially if You use an agent whose kennels are close to the airport.

If you are handling the puppy yourself and have either written or phoned the airline which you have decided to use they will have told you the flight number and airway bill number. Most airlines insist on payment at the time of despatch, but it is sometimes possible for payment to be made on arrival by the new owner if you give the airline the name and address of the person to whom the puppy is going about ten days prior to the flight.

All you have to do now is to arrive at the airport about three hours before the flight. This means rather a long wait so I have the puppy weighed in his travelling box, then take him out again and put him in the car while I go back and complete the necessary formalities.

It is generally possible to find a piece of grass nearby on which to give the puppy a last minute run and I take with me some raw beef and a flask of egg and milk to give him before he finally goes hack in the travelling box.

In case of an early morning flight, or an unexpected cancellation, arrangements can he made for the puppy to stay overnight at the R. S.P.C.A. kennels attached to the airport and he put on the flight the next day. Advance notice of this should be given if possible.

I have found on enquiry that the puppies and adults which I have sent on long journeys by air have arrived quite clean and in excellent spirits.

Some people recommend giving a tranquillizer before sending them off. I have never thought this to be necessary with a Golden Retriever but it is probably advisable with some very highly sensitive breeds.

One of the most amusing journeys by air on which I sent a dog was from our local airfield. I had an English Setter bitch on which I had spent a fortune using the best stud dogs available and each time the puppies faded out after a few days. I finally decided to give her away to an army officer who was involved in air reconnaissance and stationed about eighty miles away. He rang me up and asked me to meet him with the dog at the airfield. When I arrived I discovered that it was an open biplane. This took place some years ago. Not the least disturbed, the bitch was placed on the back seat and with a complete air of disdain soared into the air like Dismal Desmond sitting on a magic carpet.

Some while later I heard that she had been accidentally mated to a Labrador and when the puppies arrived I went to see them. She had ten perfectly healthy black puppies none of which had any intention of fading out and this was the only really healthy litter she ever reared. I had managed to save one or two from earlier litters but it had been a heart breaking job seeing them die one after another.